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Martin Brill

Mr. Martin Brill

Managing Partner, Sweetwater Consulting LLC

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GLG News by Mr. Martin Brill, Managing Partner

Analyses are solely the work of the authors and have not been edited or endorsed by GLG.

Liz Claiborne Adds Licensing To Updated Business Model

November 20, 2009

Liz Claiborne Reports $90 Million in Qurater | www.wwd.com

The immediate benefit of licensing the Liz Claiborne and Claiborne men's to J C Penny - and LCNY to QVC signal's a broader strategic play ahead for Liz Claiborne Inc.Celebrity designer Isaac Mizrahi's failed attempt to revitalize the fortunes of the brand at major department stores like Macy's, forced the company to make a decision that will have long term strategic implications for the company.

As Isaac Mizrahi Builds His Design Empire, Liz Claiborne's Slump Continues

October 5, 2009

Isaac Mizrahi's First Shop | www.wwd.com

Is it possible for Isaac Mizrahi to return the Liz Claiborne NY brand to its former glory, while, at the same time work with QVC to design and hawk a mass appeal apparel line on television; build his own designer level brand (complete with with runway shows during fashion week) and open his first retail shop on New York's fashionable East Side?Liz Claiborne's CEO Bill McComb bet the farm that Isaac Misrahi would turn the brand around, but hasn't the celebrity designer spread himself too thin?

Improved Gross Margin and Lower Costs Trump Same Store Sales For Holiday

September 23, 2009

Holiday Forecasts See Sales Down, Profits Up | www.wwd.com

Same store apparel sales for holiday 2009 will likely be flat or down but those retailers with improved gross margin and sharply reduced expenses are positioned to win big once consumer confidence returns.Improved product development strategies, sharper merchandising, greater speed to market and well managed inventory levels are the keys to greater gross margin in what will likely be another highly promotional holiday retail environment.

Buyers Remorse at Abercrombie & Fitch?

January 15, 2009

Abercrombie full-price strategy proving hard - Guardian.co.uk | www.guardian.co.uk

While Investors at Abercrombie & Fitch have sounded the alarm about Chief Executive Michael Jeffries’ stubborn position not to run sales promotions in the midst of the worst retail environment in decades and the brands poor merchandising strategy, have contributed to the company’s disastrous performance in 2008.   The recent extension of Jeffries employment contract as CEO of the company for another five years has industry experts and stockholders scratching their heads in disbelief.

Online and Moble Channels Strongly Infuence Brick-And-Mortar Shopping Decisions

October 2, 2008

Multchannel Consumers Favor Online-To-Store Shopping Experience | www.directmag.com

Multichannel retailers are driving shoppers for apparel, footwear and accessories to their stores after they find what they want online. This trend is so strong, that multiple electonic channels such as mobile and the Internet will influence 40% of retail sales by 2012.

Department Stores Must Upgrade Their Total Shopping Experience

April 21, 2008

Department Stores focus on Style | www.courierpostonline.com

The entire department store segment is hurting right now, but those that improve their merchandising strategies , build their store brand though creative marketing and improve the shopping experience for their customers will emerge as market leaders once the economy turns around. Department stores must shop the market for fresh collections and new designers - and cut back on stale assortments form large manufacturers.

A Few Well Merchandised Specialty Chains Buck The Negative Retail Tide.

April 17, 2008

Fighting Off the Chill: Retailers get Inventive To Combat Recession. WWD. | www.wwd.com

Discount stores are not the only sector holding up well in what has been described as the worst retail apparel environment in the past twenty years.   Innovative specialty chains that know their customers well are moving forward with fresh assortments and new product categories that speak to their customer’s wants and needs.

Department Stores Are Giving Up Market Share to Discounters and Off-Price Retailers

March 7, 2008

Shares Slump as February Comps Disappoint | www.wwd.com

Middle income consumers are trading down from department stores such as Kohl's,  Bon-Ton and Macy's to off-price retailers and discounters like TJX and Ross Stores, Wal-Mart and Costco.  Missy apparel retailers and brands targeting "boomers" are suffering more than most in this economic downturn. Aeropostale, Urban Outfitter's, J. Crew and H&M are thriving at a time most specialty retailers, catering to younger shoppers, are reporting negative comps.

Sailing In Rough Waters, Old Navy Charts a New Merchandising Course

January 31, 2008

Makeover at Old Navy: Faster Fashion a Key to Monthly Collections | www.wwd.com

In moving  from a key item merchandizing strategy to monthly "wardrobe building collections," will Old Navy  alienate of many of its core customers? Does Old Navy have the sourcing and logistics structure in place to execute a fast fashion delivery initiative without severe disruption of its supply chain? With no apparel retail experience in his resume, can Glenn Murphy, CEO of Gap Inc.,  properly evaluate the risks to customer loyalty,  inherent to radical merchandizing strategy shifts?

Upper and Lower Apparel Retail Segments Will Survive A Rough Holiday Season

November 12, 2007

Bernanke on Holiday: Wait and See | www.wwd.com

While the very upper retail segment continues to perform well, off-price retailers and mass merchants will benefit most from a deteriorating economic outlook. Department Stores and Specialty Retailers must manage inventories skillfuly, in order to suvive the tough season ahead.

Vera Wang's New Line Is The Most Expensive Apparel Brand At Kohl's

August 27, 2007

Vera Wang Set to Dress Up Kohl's | online.wsj.com

1.In department stores, it is very rare that the most expensive line in a department ever does well. 2. It is unlikely that the typical Kohl's customer ever heard of Vera Wang. 3. Kohl's advertising campaign on this brand does not speak to their moderate customer base. 4. Vera Wang's designer line will not suffer and she will make some very nice short term money until Kohl's management recognizes its strategic mistake.

Abercombie & Fitch Apparel Is A Natural Fit For Europe

July 18, 2007

A&F sets sights on Europe | www.retailingtoday.com

The Abercrombie & Fitch brand is percieved as edgy, sexy and contemporary American fashion, making it a perfect candidate for European expansion. The company is growing its top line by inceasing square footage in the U. S. as comp store sales have been generally flat. The London store concept was based on the unique New york flagship store on fifth avenue and will be the model for the new stores throughout Europe.

Undeterred by Foul Weather and the Economy, Guess Continues Spectacular Growth

June 11, 2007

Guess Steps on the Gas: Overseas Drive Helps Company's Growth Soar | www.wwd.com

With almost flawless execution of their global retail strategy and powerful brand extensions, Guess continues its dramatic growth in revenue and profit. Offering no excuses about the weather, high gasoline prices and a soft housing market, Guess reported that U.S. same-store sales for their first quarter grew 13.6 percent awhile total company earnings increased 71.9 percent. Wholesale revenues at Guess grew 77 percent, in spite of the brands rapid expansion of their own retail stores and growing Internet business. The experienced and talented upper management of the company was able to change the business model from a wholesale department store resource to a leading global retail brand in six years. Guess is established as a fashion leader in the “contemporary” fashion segment and its well merchandised product assortments uniquely position the brand for further global expansion.

My Space and You Tube Are Changing the Way Young Apparel Brands Get Hot

May 30, 2007

Talking to a Generation: Brands Turn to You Tube To Spead the Message | www.wwd.com

Considered to be still in its infancy, You Tube and My Space are growing geometrically, with 267 million viewers combined in March 07’, verses 71 million last year. Freedom of expression, with humor as a trigger, is creating viral marketing phenomena in the world of fashion. Major brands such as Nike and Gap are creating content, specifically, to engage an audience to promote new products. Fashion marketers are experimenting with 10 second TV spots to drive targeted segments to these sites to view their content.

Apparel Industry Trends Are Creating A Perfect Storm

April 16, 2007

Wholesale Giants Morphing Into Retailers | www.wwd.com

  • Recent retail consolidation (such as Federated’s acquisition of the May Company) has compelled apparel wholesalers to accelerate development of direct to consumer strategies in order to gain greater control of their distribution channel.
  • Wholesalers are on the lookout to acquire companies with the potential to develop into global retail “lifestyle” brands.
  • Properly executed retail concepts have the effect of strengthening the brands wholesale business.
  • As wholesalers direct to consumer business grows (Liz Claiborne is projecting to 40%) it will create a fundamental change in financial planning.

Not Ready To Cash Out: The Gap Begins Its Search For A New CEO

February 14, 2007

Top Designer Exits Gap | www.wwd.com

Industry speculation, fueled by CNBC, that Goldman Sachs was hired by Gap Inc. to “help explore options” was denied last week by the company’s founder and Chairman Emeritus, Donald Fisher. When contacted about Mr. Fisher’s comments, the investment banking firm declined comment.

Following the resignation of Paul Pressler last month, (who succeeded Mickey Drexler as CEO four and a half years ago) the company accepted the resignation of Gap President Cynthia Harris and replaced her with Marka Hansen who enjoyed moderate success as President of the company’s Banana Republic division.

Last week, Charlotte Neuville, who was hired a year and a half ago as the Gap’s Head Designer, abruptly left the company and a search is on for her successor.

The difficult task ahead for the company is to find a top-tier CEO who would be disposed to initiate yet another a turnaround effort in the glare of impatient investors’ scrutiny and be willing to embrace the freshly minted executive team now running the companies’ three major operating divisions. (Gap recently hired Dawn Robertson to turn the floundering Old Navy around and Banana is now being run by interim President, Jack Calhoun, who worked for Hanson as Banana’s Chief Merchant.)

 

Jones Strategic Plan Fails To Overcome The Impact OfRetail Consolidation

October 30, 2006

Jones Apparel Loses Ground | www.globest.com

After failing to sell the company a few months ago, Peter Boneparth, CEO of the Jones Apparel Group, is moving forward with his “strategic plan” to cut costs, streamline pre-production operations and sourcing, strengthen the company’s wholesale brands and increase the retail presence of their retail stores which includes Barney’s.

In spite of these internal initiatives skeptical investors are wondering whether the company, can shake off the impact of Federated’s acquisition of the May Company and the severe loss of $12.3 million of operating profit from the Polo Jeans Company, (which was sold back to Polo Ralph Lauren).

Fierce Competition In Europe Is Changing U.S. Apparel Retailing

October 26, 2006

Retail Market Feels Fast Fashion Effect | www.wwd.com

European “fast-fashion” specialty retailers are increasing their presence in the U.S. and putting increased pressure on American specialty chains that cater to fashion conscious young women, to speedup deliveries of trendy apparel at affordable prices.

The highly sophisticated sourcing platforms developed by a number of European apparel chains are engineered to bring fresh fashion assortments to their stores on a weekly basis, which drive stock turns, increase market share and build store traffic.

Specialty retailers in the U.S., especially those targeting women under 30, are speeding up their supply chains by developing infrastructures and work-flow process’s that emulate European apparel chains such as Mango, H&M and Topshop.

Department stores and mass merchants are reacting to these changes in the competitive landscape by pressuring their apparel suppliers and direct sources to increase the regular flow new fashion assortments to the sales floor.

Liz Claiborne Reaches Outside The Industry For New CEO

October 23, 2006

Life After Charron: Liz Faces An Uncertain Future | www.wwd.com

William L. McComb – a Johnson and Johnson group chairman, with no apparel manufacturing, or retail experience – will succeed Paul Charron as Liz Claiborne’s new chief executive officer next month.

In an earnings slump for the past year and a half and operating in a very tough retail environment, the multi-brand apparel giant’s new boss will be facing a very steep learning curve.

Trudy Sullivan, the Liz’s highly regarded president, was in the running for the job, but was passed over; leading to speculation that she will soon leave the company.

This year, four top executives have left the company and if Sullivan leaves, McComb will have to count on a weakened executive staff and Paul Charron, (who will consult for one year) to get him up to speed on the intricacies of global manufacturing, and apparel specialty retailing.

With a dearth of top executive talent available within the industry, look for more executives with a background in consumer product’s or corporate finance to ascend to the CEO spot at a number of major apparel companies in the coming year.

The Biggest Trend In the Apparel Industry? Private Label Brands

September 26, 2006

JCP unveils intimate apparel boutiques | www.retailingtoday.com

  • JC Penney’s creation of its latest private label brand of intimate apparel, Ambrielle, is emblematic of the most significant trend in apparel retailing.

  • In their concerted attempt to promote exclusivity and drive margins, department stores and mass merchants are devoting more floor space to private labels, at the expense of major multi-brand manufactures.

  • Earlier this year, Wal-Mart significantly cut the size of its orders on Levi’s Signature brand, to free up “open to buy” dollars for its own private labels.

  • Major apparel makers acknowledge that the trend of direct sourcing by their biggest accounts is accelerating at a rapid pace.

  • Multi-brand apparel makers like Liz Claiborne and the Jones Apparel Group are countering the private label trend by selling directly to consumers by way of their specialty retail stores and online sales platforms.

  • Apparel manufacturers distributing more than 25% of their production to any one retailer are in serious jeopardy of significant hits to their top and bottom line’s – without warning.

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